The best seafood chowder

Heat a large saucepan or casserole over a medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook for 5-6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until cooked, crisp and golden and the fat has rendered out. Using a slotted spoon, remove the pancetta and save for the garnish.

Add the butter to the pan, then the onion, celery, and carrot. Cook for 6-8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened and the onion is translucent. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more until fragrant.

Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables. Stir well to coat evenly and cook for 1-2 minutes to cook out the rawness of the flour. 4 Gradually pour in the wine and about 200ml fish stock, stirring constantly to combine. Simmer for 2-3 minutes to reduce slightly

Pour in the remaining fish stock and the milk, then stir to combine. Add the saffron, bay leaves, and thyme, then bring to a simmer

Add the potatoes, stir in, then simmer gently, covered for 10-15 minutes, or until just tender when pressed with a fork but not mushy.

Pour in the double cream and stir to combine. Gently add the salmon, cod and prawns to the pan. Stir gently to incorporate, without breaking up the fish. Cover with the lid and cook for 4-5 minutes, until the fish is just cooked through and the prawns are pink and opaque.

Take the pan off the heat, then stir in the samphire and lemon zest, allowing the samphire to soften slightly in the hot liquid for 1-2 minutes. Taste and season with salt, freshly ground black pepper and add a squeeze of lemon juice, if liked. Remove the thyme sprig and bay leaves.

Ladle the chowder into bowls (or create a bread bowl, following my tips). Garnish with the reserved pancetta, extra lemon zest and some parsley, if liked. Serve with warm crusty bread on the side, if liked.