Smoky fish pie

Rinse the mussels in a colander under cold running water. Pull away the grey beards and knock off any barnacles using the back of a knife. Discard any mussels that fail to close after a tap.

Set a large, heavy-based pan (one with a lid) over a high heat. Pour in the wine and add the parsley stalks. When the wine is boiling rapidly, add the mussels, give the pan a shake and pop the lid on. Cook for 1½-2 minutes, giving the pan a further shake, until the mussels are all open. Remove the pan from the heat and immediately tip the mussels out into a large colander set over a bowl to catch the cooking liquid. Discard any unopened mussels and the parsley stalks. When the opened mussels are cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the shells and set aside.

Meanwhile, rinse the pan out and return it to a medium heat. Put in the butter and, when it’s bubbling, add the leeks, crushed fennel seeds and lemon zest; cook, stirring regularly, for 6-8 minutes. Season, then add the flour and mix well; cook for 1-2 minutes. Pour in most of the mussel cooking liquor (discarding the grit at the bottom), along with the milk and cream. Bring up to a simmer, stirring constantly, until smooth; season.

Stir in the fish pie mix, shelled mussels, chopped parsley and lemon juice, then take the pan off the heat. Spoon the filling into a pie dish (about 20x30cm) and allow to cool for 25-30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200ºC, gas mark 6. Brush the lip of the pie dish with some eggwash, then carefully lay the puff pastry sheet down over the filling, crimping it round the edges and trimming away the excess. Brush the top of the pie with a touch more eggwash, then cut a small vent in the centre. Bake for 35-40 minutes, until golden brown. Leave to cool for 15 minutes, then serve with mash and steamed broccoli, if liked.